Though I have consumed
biriyani for many years, my first remembrance of a
biriyani based incident is from 2002. We were at Hyderabad and for many of us it is a crime to separate the two words Hyderabad and
biriyani. We requested the driver to take us to the best
biriyani place at 12:30 pm. The man drove maniacally through the city streets and stopped the car by an old building a few hundred metres from Charminar. He said something like
yaeech (which roughly translates to "this it it"). We looked up at the building with trepidation. I decided to check the restaurant prior to all of us getting into it. As I walked up the stairs and into the restaurant, I realized that the building seemed good enough to take our burden but I was not sure if our stomachs were strong enough to accept the burden of the food served in this restaurant. So I shook my head and informed the driver that the place was unacceptable. He let out a hanging "but" out of his mouth (you know the one that goes "but...") and went back to driving.
He took us two more unappealing restaurants that we promptly turned down. At 1:45pm, he stopped in front of a restaurant and informed us that he can no longer drive. "Don't worry about how it looks. It serves one of the best
biriyani in town" he said. We got down and looked at a restaurant that was called Cafe Bahar. The name did not sound very welcoming. We walked tentatively into the non-A/C hall and looked around for a moment. A waiter came along and ushered us into the dark A/C room, which was like a typical A/C room in a restaurant from the past. Apparently, the owners of the restaurants in the 80s and 90s had strong foundation in Physics and hence they understood that light energy and heat energy went hand-in-hand. They probably hummed the famous song by the then-famous 80s group Density Mode all the time. I especially love the line which goes
"Energy is energy so why shouldn't it be
Heat and Light should get along so awesomely"
Their strong physics principles ensured that they filled the A/C part of their restaurants with zero watt bulb. Normal human beings of 21st century could not have maneuvered through those dark aisles. But the human beings of 20th century were special. We have built-in night vision features thanks to the people who populated the electricity board. These kind souls ensured that all houses in the city had at least an hour and a half of power shutdown three days a week. People back then knew exactly where the chairs are placed even when they are misplaced. So we maneuvered through the dark A/C hall towards the empty seats. It is interesting to note that we determined that the seats were empty due to it being darker than the dark hall. Life was so interesting then! We did not require Game of Thrones back then; we had our own Game of Thorns.
We parked ourselves in the seats and asked the waiter for the items available. The advantage of a dark room in a restaurant is that one does not have to go through the pain of reading menu cards. You ask "What is there?" and prompt came the response "Egg
biriyani, Special Egg
biriyani, Bahar Egg
biriyani, Cafe Bahar Egg
biriyani, Special Bahar Egg
biriyani, Mughlai Egg
biriyani, Special Mughlai Egg
biriyani, Special Cafe Bahar Mughlai Egg
biriyani, Chicken
biriyani, Special Chicken
biriyani, Bahar Chicken
biriyani, Cafe Bahar Chicken
biriyani, Special Bahar Chicken
biriyani , Mughlai Chicken
biriyani, Special Mughlai Chicken
biriyani, Special Cafe Bahar Mughlai Chicken
biriyani, Mutton
biriyani, Special Mutton
biriyani, Bahar Mutton
biriyani, Cafe Bahar Mutton
biriyani, Special Bahar Mutton
biriyani, Mughlai Mutton
biriyani, Special Mughlai Mutton
biriyani, Special Cafe Bahar Mughlai Mutton
biriyani". The advantage of placing the dish with the maximum number of prefixes at the end of the list is that the customers usually only remembers the last dish which started with special and had other adjective (or whatever grammar construct Mughlai is). We should also remember that the customer is a person with a large ego and so he/she will not say "I don't remember a word of what you said. So please repeat". Instead he will act intelligent and say "Give me that last special dish". The waiter then moves in for the kill and ask "You want the Special Cafe Bahar Hyderabadi
biriyani is it?" The egoist would promptly agree by saying "Yes, yes! That one!"
Something similar happened to us too. The waiter asked the follow-up question - "How many?" Though we were hungry we decided not to take too many
biriyani. So we said decided to take three plates for the four of us. He looked at each of us for a moment and said "take two". We protested by saying "we are famished". He compromised by saying "take two and if you want more, order later". That seemed like a sensible option and we agreed instantly. When the plates of
biriyani arrived we wondered why he had not forced us to take one plate. Each plate could have fed each one of us for a week. Twenty minutes later, we were shoving the plates at each other's face. The
biriyani was delicious. It was the best
biriyani we had had in our lives. It taught us the meaning of the word flavour. It only had the flavour of spice and was not really spicy. Since then Cafe Bahar was high on our recommendation list for
biriyani in Hyderabad, not that I am aware of anyone who heeded to our advice. Whenever I travel to Hyderabad, I ensure I had additional time to go till Cafe Bahar and parcel a family pack of
biriyani. I would shove the pack into my laptop bag. At the airport, when I opened the bag at the security check point to take out my laptop, the fragrance of
biriyani would spread through the airport. People would look at me with a mixture of anger, contempt and envy. Once a security guard asked with an inquiring look "
biriyani?". I responded "
biriyani!" Needless to say, my laptop smelt of
biriyani for more than a week and HR at the office would walk around the office trying to find the person eating
biriyani inside the office during office hours. The fools never realized that my laptop loved
biriyani .
One time, I did not have the time to go till Cafe Bahar. I compromised and bought the
biriyani from another restaurant that is believed to have existed since the time discovery of
biriyani was being discussed. As famous as the restaurant was, we did not like the
biriyani. It was greasy and the flavour of the spices were lost in its excess. We shared the
biriyani with the person working at our house. She and her family were down with food poisoning for the next three days. I avoided going anywhere near that restaurant since. I am not interested in visiting paradise yet.
In old Delhi, there is a famous restaurant that serves authentic Mughlai Biriyani. It is said that the chefs in the restaurant's traced their lineage to the cooks in the last Mughal emperor's kitchen. We were curious to find the
biriyani consumed by Bahadur Shah Zafar and so went in search of the restaurant. After a number of lefts and rights, we reached the small restaurant and seated ourselves in its crowded interiors. The
biriyani did not look like the
biriyani we were used to. I had a small voice in my head say "
ithena manja sora?" It tasted like
manja soru too. I can't say I liked the taste of the
biriyani. What would Bahadur Shah Zafar's reaction have been had tasted the
dang-dang biriyani. I have a feeling he would have order either of the chefs to be executed. A couple of hours after lunch, we reached the famed
parattewale galli. The lunch still slumbered in our stomachs and we really did not have the space inside to fit anything else. But the
paratte in this
galli were popular and we had to try these. So we got into the small and heated interior of a restaurant. The
paratte, which were fried in
desi ghee arrived dripping in
ghee. At the sight of the dish our insides started churning. Our brains sent a polite and yet firm message to our stomachs, which read "I understand your situation but this is once in a lifetime opportunity. I would appreciate your cooperation". The message was effective and we were able to taste the
paratte without throwing up. I did not enjoy the
parattes; maybe due to my full stomach. I have never thought of visiting that place again and even as I write these words on an empty stomach I can feel something churn inside me.
For seven years, Hotel Crescent acted as an extended kitchen and at times dining hall for us. At most times we satiated our irresistible urge for non-
Sattvic food at Crescent. I believe that the concept of
Sattvic is overrated. Two
Sattvics have been a part of my life for the past two years and I don't find anything
Sattvic about them. While consuming
Sattvic food might help, the consumption of this kind of food alone cannot make one calm. I guess the fame that its consumption brings removes any benefit that this food can bring in. I digress. I don't care about consuming
Sattvic food and so love the food served Crescent. The
Malabar Porotta, Kerala Mutton Curry,
Aiyla fry and Kerala Fish Curry can only be referred to in the proper noun case. They are that good. But our favourite dish at Crescent is the
MALABAR MUTTON BIRIYANI. Yeah! It deserves all caps. The dish is flavourful and visually appealing. As one consumes the
biriyani one is only aware of its presence but not overpowered by it. You will not remember for the next four hours that you consumed
biriyani. That is an important quality for a food item. One should be aware of the food's presence from a few minutes before till a few minutes after eating it. After three hours, if your fingers still smell like the dish then you shouldn't be consuming that food.
One day, out of blue, Lucknow entered my life. The Government showed us a carrot and we started chasing it. Ultimately, we did not even get the rope holding the carrot. But I got the opportunity to travel to Lucknow and experience its sights, sounds and more importantly fragrance and taste. Lucknowi
Biriyanis are the best. They are even better than Hyderabadi
biriyani. The first time I had not done my research well. I picked a pack of
biriyani from one of the branches of a famous chain called
Dasterkhwan. The
biriyani tasted like a good North Indian
biriyani, which was simply not good enough for us. Subsequently I learned about
Tunday Kababi and its
Galuti Kebab. One time, I stayed in a hotel opposite to a mall. The mall had an outlet of
Tunday Kababi. One evening, I picked some of the
kababs and
biriyani for dinner. It seemed to me that my
biriyani experience had reached its peak. Since then I packed
biriyani and
Galuti Kabab from the original
Tunday Kababi, which is situated in a place that can only be reached through twisting and turning roads filled to the brim with traffic. But it was worth the effort for in our opinion
Tunday Kababi's biriyanis are the best.
One time, I packed the
biriyani at Tundays and reached the airport. I was in a convenient flight from Lucknow for it reached Chennai by 8:30 pm. So all of us could have the
biriyani for dinner at 9:30 pm. The flight took off well and it proceeded well too. In fact everything went well till it reached the Chennai airspace. It could not land in Chennai. The captain came over the PA system and said that the runway was relaid that morning but it was not done properly. Gravel from the freshly laid runway was flying around during landing and it was considered too dangerous to attempt landing in Chennai. As the plane was running out of fuel, it had to be rerouted to Bangalore for refueling. The plane reached Bangalore at 9:30 pm (our planned dinner time) where a further complication was revealed to us. Apparently, the pilot had already completed the stipulated flying time for the day. He would lose his license if he attempted to fly us to Chennai. So the airlines was trying to get a pilot to fly us back to Chennai at 10 pm. I lost hope of getting back home that night. The
biriyani sat in my laptop bag and was busy sharing its fragrance with the other contents of my bag, which, obviously, included my laptop. I called up home and informed them the situation. It seemed this would turn out to be a
thayir saadam night for them.
At around 11 pm, a pilot arrived and the plane took off from Bangalore. Miraculously, the runways at Chennai had cleared by this time and the plane landed at Chennai without causing any commotion. I was home at 1 pm. We eagerly opened the laptop bag; the whiff of
biriyani hit us. We took out the pack, opened it and tasted it. To our relief, it was not spoiled. We could not contain ourselves with one mouthful of dish. So we helped ourselves to another mouthful, which led to another mouthful, which in turn led to another mouthful. This process went on till the pack of
biriyani became just a pack. That night, we became aware of a question and its inevitable response. What is the right time to eat
biriyani? Anytime.
I can't keep count of the number of times I have traveled between Chennai and Bangalore by road. At some point, we heard that Ambur was famous for its leather footwear and
Biriyanis. Till date I have not tried either at Ambur. Our learning got fine tuned when we were informed that Five Star
Biriyani is the best
Biriyani available at Ambur. On my next journey, I kept an eye out for Five Star
Biriyani but I only found hundreds of Star
Biriyanis and not one Five Star
Biriyani. I called up the informer and shouted
"Hey, there's no Five Star
Biriyani at Ambur."
"Five Star
Biriyani! I did not say anything about Five Star
Biriyani"."
"Nonsense! You were gushing about the
biriyanis at Five Star
Biriyani in Ambur."
"That was Star
Biriyani and not Five Star
Biriyani."
"No! You said Five Star."
"Stop talking rot! I know what I said. I said Star and not Five Star."
"Hmm Ok! Maybe I misunderstood. But that does not solve the problem I have. There are hundreds of Star
Biriyanis here."
"It's the one which says 'original' and that it was founded in eighteen hundred and something."
"Thanks! That narrows it down to 10 shops. Now tell me which of the ten."
"You mean there are ten such restaurants."
"Yes!"
"We went to the one which is next to the leather
chappal shop."
"Five such shops."
"The one with the green board."
"Stays at five."
"It has a pan-wallah in front."
"Four"
"Ehhhh! Ummmmm!"
"Oh! Forget it."
A few years ago I got to know that Ambur's famous Five Star
Biriyani had opened a branch at Annanagar. I searched for the restaurant in Google map and was stumped when we did not find any information about it . I was sure my Ambur
biriyani expert friend would have some information.
"Hey! Have you heard that Ambur's Five Star
Biriyani has opened a branch in Chennai?"
"No. I haven't."
"Is that so? I heard its somewhere in Annanagar. Since you are a great lover of
biriyani I though you would know its location."
"I have never heard of a Five Star
Biriyani in Annanagar."
He slammed the phone on me. Actually, it was a mobile phone and he did not slam it literally. I meant he cut the call on me rudely. But the rudeness made me think. I wondered what had upset him thus and that is when I remembered our conversation from the past. I searched for Star
Biriyani and found its location.
The
biriyani had a ginger flavour in it and this made its taste unique. Many years ago, a chain of fast food joints called Kabab Magic
in Bangalore served similar
biriyani. Kabab Magic was a special place for us; it introduced us to Chicken Grill and Chicken
Shawarma. We loved the
biriyanis too. I wonder how I missed talking about this place at the beginning. We have only been to Star at Annanagar once. Since then Star has opened many branches around the city but the taste of the
biriyani is not the same. The dish is too oily and the smell of
biriyani stays with you for a long time.
Recently, I picked a pack of
Biriyani at the Star outlet in Rajakilpakkam. As I waited for the parcel to arrive, two college kids walked in. One of them ordered two Chicken
Biriyanis while the other looked at the menu. He smacked at an item in the menu card and ordered two Prawns Lollipop. The person at the counter asked them to pay Rs. 856. The two of them nearly fell back in shock. They said in unison "How much?" The man responded "Rs. 856". "How much is a plate of Prawn Lollipop?" "Rs 228." "What! Cancel it" said one. "No wait! How much will the amount be if I take one Prawn Lollipop?" said the other. "Rs. 626." "Cancel it!" said the one but the other one hesitated. "We only have Rs. 500 to spend for lunch today. Remember!" reminded the one. "Okay! Two Chicken
Biriyanis only." said the other with a sigh.